I've lived walking distance from the beach for 24 years, spent every sunny day I could baking on the sand and swimming in ocean, but because of an old fear I never learned to surf. When I was 6 years old I witnessed a young girl getting pulled out of the water with a chunk of her leg missing from a collision with her surfboard fin. Apparently, that image was the only thing that came to mind every time I attempted to surf. But life is all about facing your fears, and after 18 years it turns out all I needed was a perfect day at San Onofre.
Because I visualized myself sanding up and surfing for so many years, once I was in the water with my board, I knew what I wanted to do...
1st wave of the day- I was up and rode it all the way in.
2nd wave I was determined to angle- so I took a right all the way to the shore.
3rd wave- Jeff and I rode it in together.
It's official, I'm a surfer.
After a great day of surfing we packed up and were off to Murrieta to celebrate Clay's birthday.
the best adventure car EVER...my FORD Explorer.
we chopped our own firewood
had our own wine tasting
celebrated Clayton's birfday
and hiked through Hoover's 10 acre property.
Once you face your fears, anything is possible.
